Sunday, November 2, 2008

Wow, I managed to let the time get away from me again. Quite a bit has happened since the last time I got around to updating.

Last weekend CIEE took the gap year kids to Huangshan (yellow mountain) in Anhui province. It is supposed to be the most beautiful set of mountains in China, and it lived up to its reputation. The five of us were accompanied by the CIEE director of student activities, Maggie. She is incredibly nice. I really enjoyed talking with her. She was also an international relations major. She is working at CIEE because she is interested in eventually working at an education NGO.

We took a train to get there which was really fun. We traveled "hard sleeper" class, which means that you have a bunk bed in a large car full of beds. They are stacked three high and kind of in compartments but not really. There are two sets of three bunks divided by a wall but they are open ended to the corridor down the car is open. I had the very top bunk, and I had to climb a ladder to get up to it. There wasn't enough room for me to fully sit up, so I felt really bad for Nate, who is 6'2''. The pricing on train tickets is actually quite interesting, with bunks getting more expensive the closer they are to the ground.

After that trip I have now ridden in every class available on Chinese trains except for hard seat, which is apparently essentially just benches, and I am more than happy to avoid.

Chinese trains have a great feature. At the end of each car they have a large tank that dispenses nuclear temperature boiling water. So everyone can bring ramen and tea and use the hot water to have a continuous supply of hot food and drinks.

When we arrived we were met by our tour guide and driver and took the hour drive up to the base of the mountain. From the base we took a special Huangshan taxi up to the station a little way up the mountain. From there we took a cable car to get onto the mountain itself. The view from the cable car was amazingly beautiful. There was one point where we transitioned from being in the clear air going up the mountain to being in the clouds themselves which was amazing.

Huangshan is known for its contrasts: between beautiful trees and bare rock formations, and between the sky and the clouds. At first when we got up to the part of the mountain we would be walking I was really disappointed because we were in the clouds and I couldn't see very far from the mountain. But it turned out that that was the magical part. Every so often the clouds would break, a shaft of sunlight would bunch through and we would suddenly be able to see another mountain across from us, or a new rock formation. It was almost magical. The one part of it that was really sad was that no matter how much I love the new camera my parents got for me before I came to China, absolutely nothing could capture the amazing quality of the light breaking through the clouds.

Another contrast that they don't mention when they tell you about Huangshan is the contrast between the natural beauty of the place and the incredibly number of people who come to see it. Everything is pretty contained, built, and organized to deal with the massive amount of tourists on the mountain. These aren't western tourists. There were a few others that we saw, but by and large these were Chinese people from all over the country coming to see a natural. Much like Americans would go to see Yosemite or the Grand Canyon.

As we got up to the top of the peaks and through some of the longer harder climbs the tourists thinned out and we were able to see more and do a little more interacting with the mountain and climbing around. However, for the tourists who really wanted to get to the top, but didn't feel that they could do it under their own steam, there were men with sedan chairs willing to carry you around the mountain. I personally would not want to take one, because I feel like I might say something slightly offensive and the two men carrying the chair would only have to "accidentally" tip it ever so slightly to dump me over the side of the mountain.

That night we went back to a hotel in Huangshan City and had a wonderful dinner.

The next day we went to visit a very famous preserved traditional Chinese town, Hongcun. If any of you have seen Crouching Tiger Hidden Dragon, this city is where some of the scenes were filmed. Specifically it is famous for the bridge in front of the village.

The whole town is supposed to be shaped like an ox. It has two massive trees for horns, a pond as it's stomach, and four bridges for feet. It was really interesting to see the different preserved houses in the village. There were certain decorations and house designs that were reserved for people of different social standing.

After finishing up at the village we went for lunch at a really awesome restaurant. When we got there we were escorted down some stairs to the kitchen area. They had all of the available dishes on display, and we got to point at what we wanted. The chefs would then cook it and have it delivered to our table it. It was like dim sum without the carts.

We took a bus back to Shanghai. Ironically due to some strange layout of train tracks, it took up 10 hours on the train to get to Huangshan, and 5 hours by bus to get back... yeah...

I can't even begin to describe the bus. Suffice it to say that I really thought that I was going to shoot the driver before we reached Shanghai. First, I usually don't wear a seatbelt on buses mostly because they usually aren't available. After 10 minutes on that bus I went on a mission to find the seatbelt on my seat before the bus tried to stop again, and rocketed me down the aisle and through the windshield. Fortunately there was a seatbelt, which I did wear throughout the rest of the ride, despite the weird looks. Second, the driver and the horn were BEST FRIENDS FOREVER. I'm not joking. He leaned on the thing the entire way out of the city. We would be coming towards a car we wanted to pass with enough space for two other cars to drive figure eights around us and the driver would just lean on the horn like "HELLO, WE ARE THINKING OF PASSING YOU SOMETIME IN THE NEXT TEN MINUTES SO BE AWARE OF OUR APPROACH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!" We finally got out of the city and onto a completely deserted mountain road and I was ready to breath a huge sigh of relief because there were no cars to honk at. Oh how wrong I was. Every time we approached a curve, and keep in mind that this was a twisty mountain road, so there were a lot of curves, the driver would lean on the horn as if to say "HEY YOU, ANY CARS THAT COULD POSSIBLY BE ON THE OTHER SIDE OF THAT CAR, A BUS IS GOING TO BE COMING AROUND THE CURVE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!" I thought I might cry. I don't even hear honking in Shanghai any more, I have got it almost completely blocked out, but I just could not block this out, because it kept me from sleeping. However after a while I stopped worrying about myself and started worrying about whether I was going to have to physically restrain Kate.

Since sleep was out of the question we ended up playing gin rummy across the aisle of the bus. Rummy really is more fun when it is dark out so you can't see any of the cards and have to call out your discards so the other players know what is going on.

We had two brief rest stops to buy food and use the bathrooms. I had another huge I love China moment when we came back from the second rest stop. Most of us had bought, Oreos, gummies, crackers, and the like, but Jonas came back with this bag with something spicy looking inside. When I asked him what it was he grinned and informed me that it was duck neck. Only in China...

1 comment:

Unknown said...

Dear Zoe,

I have enjoyed your blog so much! It may be dangerous to my safety, since I laugh out loud at work whenever I read it. (I imagine my co-workers here at CIEE in Portland feel a bit like you did towards the bus driver.)

My family's duck neck moment (or maybe the obverse) occurred on Lamma Island, a small island with no roads in Hong Kong bay. We lived in Tokyo for a long time and came to crave some foods out of proportion to their importance to our diet--think of life with no Reese's. Anyway, we sent our children into a tiny shop to buy duck necks or some such to snack on during our ferry ride back to Hong Kong, and they emerged triumphant--with bags of our very favorite brand of that strange New England fixation--salt-and-vinegar chips. We had copies of the resulting photo printed for our Christmas cards that year. (If someone didn't know us well enough to get it, then we crossed them off our list.)

Anyway, please post often--you have an admiring audience!

Best wishes,
Laura Lyons
(Colleague of Marianne Rubin, based in Portland, ME)